Understanding Lash Retention: Essential Tips for Lash Techs and Clients

Retention can be a controversial topic in the lashing industry, often clouded by myths and conflicting advice. Each lash tech has their own unique style, technique, and opinions on what works best for lash set retention. As a certified retention expert, I'm here to clarify these aspects for both fellow lash techs and clients.

Lash Prep

Proper lash preparation is crucial. If you’re a lash tech and not cleansing or priming your client's lashes before even shaking your glue, it’s time to reassess your approach.

Cleansing and priming serve two essential purposes. Cleansing—using a foaming soap or cleansing solution—removes oils, makeup, and debris, allowing extensions to adhere better to the natural lashes. It also restores the pH balance of the lashes, optimizing the glue's ability to dry and bond. Priming further balances the pH and enhances the chemical reaction between the glue and natural lashes for improved adhesion.

While both steps are vital, they don’t always need to be performed simultaneously. Typically, I use a cleansing solution with micro swabs. If the lashes still look shiny after drying, I may apply a primer. However, if the cleanser alone suffices, I only use primer if extensions begin to slip during application. In such cases, I lift the applied extensions with a spoolie to expose the natural lashes and apply primer only to those. After it dries, I continue with the service.

Remember, it’s not solely the lash tech's responsibility to prep the client’s lashes. Clients should come with clean lashes, free from makeup, oils, and debris. This helps ensure better retention and is a key point in my policy, so clients know to arrive with clean lashes for optimal results.

Humidity

Humidity is a significant factor in lash extension longevity. Lash glue cures with moisture; less moisture means slower drying time, while more moisture accelerates it. 

This can be a double-edged sword. Low humidity can cause the glue to take longer to cure, leading to lashes sticking together or shifting. High humidity, on the other hand, can cause flash curing, where the glue hardens too quickly and doesn’t adhere properly. Both scenarios negatively impact retention.

Choosing the right glue is essential. For beginners, a glue with a slower drying time is recommended to allow more time to secure each lash before moving on. As you gain experience, you can experiment with different glues, drying times, and humidity levels.

Invest in a hydrometer to measure room humidity and check your glue’s recommended range. I usually aim for the middle of this range for best results. Depending on your room’s conditions, consider a humidifier or dehumidifier to maintain optimal humidity levels.

Bonder

Many lash techs question the need for a bonder at the end of a service. Personally, I always use a bonder, and my clients can go 3-5 weeks before needing a fill.

Bonder doesn’t work magic but aids in curing the glue. While humidity cures glue from the inside out, a bonder causes the glue to cure from the outside in, speeding up the curing process.

For clients, this means they don’t need to follow the 24-hour no-water rule often cited in the industry. Once the glue is fully cured, clients can get their lashes wet after 2-4 hours, though it’s best to wait 24 hours before swimming in chlorine or saltwater to avoid premature dissolution of the glue.

Understanding and applying these key factors—lash prep, humidity control, and bonder use—can greatly improve lash retention. By staying informed and adopting best practices, you’ll build trust with your clients and strengthen your business.

If you have any questions about retention, product recommendations, or the chemistry behind lash extensions, feel free to email me. I’d be happy to chat!